I am continuing the Infinity theme, and more specifically, scenery.
As you know, Infinity is very reliant on use of scenery for cover; a wide open table is going to be an un-fun-shoot-fest where the most guns wins.
There is an emerging market in Infinity scenery. Many vendors are using laser cut MDF to produce some amazing work, Blind Pig being a prime example.
Buying and painting your own scenery is a great way to get enough to cover a table (there is an on-going debate about how much scenery is too much scenery on the Infinity forums).
Building your own scenery is another option. It’s a lot more satisfying, there are TONNES of resources out there, and it can be less expensive than buying a table’s worth of laser cut MDF. By building your own scenery you can also get EXACTLY the pieces of terrain that you imagine!
Don’t misunderstand, it’s a hard slog building it all yourself; fingers stuck together, fingers stuck to the terrain, cuts with scalpels and badly measured bits cut are all just part of the fun.
Badly measured bits is probably the easiest to control. The old adage, “Measure twice, cut once” applies. Grab a typical figure from the range (in my case a Morat Vanguard model) and use that to establish the height of the terrain piece that you’re making. It’s a good idea to round the value, or build to the typical size that the rules deal with; for example, a lot of the Infinity rules reference heights of about three inches.
Another really good idea before you start building is to sketch some ideas for the design, including potential measurements. This makes sure that your two man shack doesn’t grow into a full blown skyscraper.
On to the results.
The idea for the table is to follow the same concept as the Call of Duty map, “Shipment”. Lots of freight containers and a few shanty style buildings thrown in.
The first one produced ended up looking like this:
The building has a two part, removable roof so that miniatures can move through it. The construction was frustrating because the balsa wood planks that I was cutting to lay on the ground and on the top have no strength when cut to length and snapped. Eventually, they were replaced with ice-cream sticks (or popsicle sticks) that are a lot stronger. The straight up and down bits (experiments in AMATEUR carpentry, remember) are two thin pieces of balsa wood stuck together with generous amounts of PVA glue. The PVA glue soaks into the balsa wood and helps it to become more rigid and stronger, by comparison.
The framework is erected and stuck together using PVA glue and left to thoroughly dry. It’s also at this point that you will find out how accurate your measuring and cutting was. Frantic sticking and holding pieces together to accommodate poor measurements and the associated swearing are acceptable tools at this point.
The outside walls are corrugated cardboard that can be found in most craft stores, cut into vaguely regular shapes and glued in place.
The roof of the shack is a piece of card cut in two. To make sure it sits evenly on the shack, there are guide blocks glued to the underside and hold the roof in place. By applying PVA glue to both the top side (to glue the corrugated card down) and the underside helps to reduce the amount of warping in the card.
To help maintain the run down feel of the shack, there is no internal covering on the walls, and there are a few deliberate holes in the outside as well.
Post construction, spray and paint! The local Bunnings hardware store had some cheap black matte spray that servers as a base coat. The painting then will be a heavy dry brush with some silver craft paint and liberal application of a rusty appearance.